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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.